Guides:GoldThe purity of gold is measured in karats, which are expressed in increments of one to 24. Thus, 24-karat gold is pure, 18-karat gold is 75 percent gold and 25 percent alloy, and 14-karat gold is 60 percent gold and 40 percent alloy, and 10-karet gold is 40 percent gold and 60 percent alloy. Pure 24k gold, while strong, is also very malleable. This malleability makes gold easy to work with, but it also makes it susceptible to abrasions. Alloys are added to gold to give it strength. Common gold alloys are silver, copper, nickel, and zinc. The color of gold will vary with the alloys used. Nickel, copper and zinc produce white gold, which looks similar to platinum. Silver, copper and zinc produce yellow gold. Both types have similar strength and malleability. The price of gold jewelry depends on karat weight and the quality of the finished piece. When the karat weight is high, the color is brighter and the value of the jewelry increases. However, pure gold (24k) and 22k gold are too soft and easily bent, making them unsuitable for jewelry. Fourteen karat and 18k gold produce the best combination of beauty and durability and are the preferred choice for fine jewelry. Solid gold versus hollowed-out gold. In order to save money, some jewelers hollow out gold rings and other pieces of jewelry. The result is jewelry that is less durable and less valuable. All gold jewelry at Rochester Lapidary Jewelers, including our own custom-made pieces, is constructed of solid gold and feature the finest craftsmanship. The result is jewelry of lasting value and durability.
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Gemstones
Kinds of Gemstones (with thanks to Jewelers of America, Inc)
| Color: | Rarity and cost: | Style guide: | Birthstone: | Wedding anniversary: | |
| Alexandrite | Shades of green under natural light; red under artificial light | One of the rarest of all gemstones. Larger ones are hard to find and costly. sdfgsdfg | Unique color changes make alexandrite ideal for settings that feature it prominently. | June | 15th |
| Amber | Normally light yellow to brown; also, reddish, whiteish, or blueish. | Affordable. | Amber is very lightweight, so it’s perfect for a necklace, jewelry featuring large chunky beads and for large earrings. | ||
| Amethyst | Pale lavender-pink to nearly black-purple, depending on where it was found. | One of the most affordable gemstones even for larger sizes. | Perfect for any piece of Jewelry. Its affordability and durability makes it perfect for everyday wear. | Feb. | 31st |
| Aquamarine | Nearly colorless with a hint of blue to intense deep blue. Also greenish blue. | Comes in a wide range of prices. Readily available in larger sizes. | A very durable stone that doesn't require the gentle handing of more delicate stones. Delicate colors make it ideal for jewelry featuring large solitaire gems. Lovely in settings feature platinum and diamonds. Also effective set in gold. Pastel shades flatter fair-skinned redheads and blondes. | March | 18th |
| Citrine | Pale yellow to yellowish-brown. Colors more subdued and neutral than many other stones. | Readily available and suitable for all budgets. Large sizes are very affordable. | Earthy tones complement many wardrobes. Affordability makes it ideal for chunky necklaces. Tough and durable for everyday wear. | Nov. | |
| Coral | Comes in a rainbow of shades, from white and pastel shades to deep vibrant colors. | Affordable. | Extremely versatile. Coral lends itself to all types of jewelry from a plain strand of coral beads to rings, pins, necklaces and earrings. | ||
| Emerald | Green and only green. | Expensive. Most emeralds have inclusions. Flawless emeralds are rare and usually found only in small sizes. | Often used as a solitaire, but enhanced when surrounded by diamonds or combined with other precious stones. | May | 35th |
| Garnet | Available in all colors except blue. Red is the most common color. | From affordable (red varieties) to very expensive (flawless clear green). | Durable and perfect for daily wear. A bracelet or necklace set with garnets of many different colors is a unique and affordable fashion statement. | Jan. | 2nd |
| Jade | In addition to green, blue, yellow, red, lavender, gray and black. | Expensive. | Jade stones lend themselves well to single gems set into mountings for rings, necklaces and earrings. | 3rd | |
| Opal | There are more than a dozen varieties of opals. Each incorporates flashes of several different colors, giving opals the appearance of having an inner fire. In general opals show just about every different color in a variety of combinations. | Depending on color, are expensive (black opals) to mid-priced (white opals). | A very delicate stone that needs a mounting that provides protection. Tremendously versatile and perfect for pins, necklaces and earrings. | Oct. | 12th |
| Peridot | Yellow-green to brilliant light green. | Smaller peridots are numerous and affordable. Seldom free of inclusions in larger sizes. | Favored by fair-skinned people. Somewhat delicate and seldom used in rings. Often mounted in clusters of three or more or with other gemstones. | Aug. | 1st |
| Ruby | Red, often with a hint of blue. Color distribution is sometimes uneven. | Large rubies are rare and costly. Carat for carat, rubies can sometimes cost more than two or three times a diamond of equal quality. | Very durable. Used in settings that prominently display its size and brilliance. | July | 40th |
| Sapphire | Pure rich blue, but also many other colors, except red. | Blue, pink, orange and lavender sapphires are very costly. Others are less expensive depending on size and quality. | Durable and very suitable for rings. Often an alternative to diamonds for engagement rings. Prince Charles chose a blue sapphire for the engagement ring he gave to Lady Diana. | Sept. | 10th |
| Spinel | Colorless or in several different shades, including red, pink, orange, blue and violet. | All colors except for very fine reds are available at affordable prices. | Very durable and suitable for everyday wear. | 9th | |
| Tanzanite | Pale lilac to deep blue. Each stone shows three colors depending on angle. | Large, flawless stones are rare and costly. Prices for other stones fluctuate based on conditions in Tanzania, where stones are found. Generally about 20%-40% less per carat than sapphire. | One of the newest gemstones, officially introduced by Tiffany & Co in 1967. Wearing one is a mark of distinction. Not as hard as diamonds and emeralds and needs a setting that provides protection. Should be set in earrings, pendants or necklaces. | 8th | |
| Topaz | Usually a transparent golden yellow, but also in other tints, from red to pale blue. | Yellow and blue topaz are found in larger sizes and are very affordable. Orange-red and pink topazes are rare and more costly. | Complements many complexions and wardrobes. Perfect for a variety of settings. | Nov. | 29th |
| Tourmaline | More color variations than any other gemstone. Various color shades within each stone. | Mid-priced and affordable. | With so many colors, perfect for elaborate bracelets and necklaces of many different tourmaline stones. | Oct. | 21st |
| Zircon | A variety of colors, including yellow, orange, red, blue and green. | Mid-priced and affordable. Typically displays very few inclusions. | With such a variety of colors, perfect for bracelets and necklaces set with numerous zircons. |
(back to top)
Jewelry Care
Fine jewelry is built to last, but it does need care. By following these easy guidelines, you can help ensure that your jewelry lasts for generations looking like new.
Diamonds
Diamonds are the hardest substance known, but diamonds are surprisingly susceptible to scratches and chips. Here’s how to keep them safe from damage.
- Store diamond jewelry seperately in individual jewelry boxes, cloth pouches or fabric-lined jewelry boxes with separate dividers and compartments. Diamonds can become scratched if not stored properly of if they come into contact with other Jewelry.
- Make sure your skin is free of lotions, soaps, powders and hairspray before putting on diamond Jewelry. These can dull the sparkle of diamonds and over time build up on diamonds as a film.
- Don't wear diamond jewelry while participating in strenuous activities. Diamonds can chip on hard impact and jewelry can be damaged.
- Don't let your diamond jewelry come into contact with harsh chemicals such as chlorine and bleach. Repeated exposure to even small amounts of these chemicals can cause gold to become brittle and lead to breaks and damaged prongs. Remove diamond jewelry before entering pools and hot tubs.
- Clean diamond jewelry with a mild solution of 1 part ammonia, or an ammonia-based cleanser, to 4 parts water. Let it soak for 10 minutes and then scrub gently with a soft new toothbrush used only for this purpose. Rinse under warm tap water and pat dry with a lint-free cloth. DON'T use toothpaste. Contrary to popular beliefs, toothpaste is not an effective jewelry cleaning. The abrasives found in toothpaste will dull the gold or other metal in your settings.
- Have your diamond jewelry professionally inspected at least once a year. This inspection should check loose stones, bent prongs, or signs of wear. Have it professionally cleaned at the same time. At Rochester Lapidary Jewelers, cleaning is free.
Gold
Gold comes in different styles, colors and karat weights, but the care and cleaning procedure remains the same.
- Remove gold jewelry before showering or cleaning, since soap forms a film on gold that dulls its luster.
- Remove gold jewelry before entering a hot tub or pool. Chlorine can permanently discolor gold.
- To clean gold jewelry at home, use any of the many commercial cleaners available and a soft lint-free or chamois cloth to pat dry.
- Ask us about cleaning gold jewelry that contains colored gemstones. In some cases an ultrasonic cleaning machine may be appropriate, however, some gemstones can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaning.
Platinum
Platinum is one of the most durable precious metals and is resistant to discoloration from chlorine and other chemicals. But even platinum can become scratched or damage. So store platinum jewelry seperately and don't let it come into contact with other pieces. You can clean platinum at home with jewelry cleaners designed for platinum, but if your platinum Jewelry contains gold, diamonds or gemstones, special care must be taken to ensure they aren’t damaged during cleaning. Ask us about the best way to clean such jewelry and bring your platinum jewelry in for our free professional cleaning. We recommend you clean platinum jewelry every six months.
Gemstones
Different gemstones have different care and cleaning requirements. In most cases warm soapy water and a soft brush or lint free cloth are safe. Some gemstones can be damaged by mechanical cleaners, steamers and ultrasonic cleaners, especially gemstones that have lot of inclusions. Ask us about the best way to care for your gemstones jewelry and stop in frequently for a free professional cleaning.
(back to top)
Appraisals
There are two kinds of appraisals. The first kind establishes the dollar value of a piece of jewelry in order to ensure it against loss, theft or damage. The second form of appraisals are sometimes called estate appraisals. These establish a hypothetical market value for a piece of jewelry and suggest how much it might command at auction or if a buyer is found.
Rochester Lapidary Jewelers performs insurance appraisals and helps customers ensure that insured jewelry is replaced with jewelry of the same value and quality. Insurance appraisals are usually more rigorous than estate appraisals and must meet strict insurance company guidelines and standards.
 |
In addition to insuring against loss or damage, other reasons people get jewelry appraised include establishing fair market valuations of jewelry to settle estates and divorce settlements. Appraisals can also help establish jewelry identification to guarantee against switching when it is left somewhere for repair.
Appraising is not regulated in most states. Therefore, appraisers are not required to have formal education or belong to appraisal organizations. This often leads to incomplete and shoddy appraisals done by untrained appraisers. These appraisals seldom meet the strict standards of insurance companies, resulting in replacement jewelry that is often worth less than the originals.
That’s why its important to have an appraisal done by appraisers certified by the Gemological Institute of America. Such appraisers have received extensive training and are required to continually receive on-going training in order to appraise newer types and styles of gemstones, precious metals and jewelry construction.
Market values change, so most professionals recommend you have jewelry appraised every two years.
Grading reports
Jewelry appraisals and grading reports are two important types of reports about your gemstones and Jewelry, but they do not serve the same purpose. A grading report describes an unmounted gemstone. Grading reports differ for diamonds and colored gems, but documentation will include specifics about carat weight and dimensions, color and clarity grades, and cut and shape.
(back to top)
